PAT 4 > Issue 7: Sound System | Part 3: Amps/Amp Rack/Fiberglassed Sub Enclosure
Written By: David Pitlyuk

Alright, now it's time to get a little more difficult. We're going to tackle running the wires for the amplifiers. Basically you'll want to remove all the panels we have done in the steps above, including the dash:

For wiring we used a Tsunami 4-gauge amp kit, Tsunami 4-channel RCA's, Tsunami 2-channel RCA's, and a Tsunami distribution block.

We ran all the RCA's down the drivers side of the car as well as the front speaker wire. We ran new speaker wire directly from the rear speakers to the hatch. We ran the power wire down the passenger side of the car. You don't want to run the wires down the same of the ride so there is less of a chance of picking up an alternator whine in your speakers.

To get the 4 gauge wire through the firewall from the battery, we removed all the plastic (all just poppers) around the battery:

You will see a huge grommet on the firewall, just take a razor knife, and cut an X into it. Then run the wire through, and if you look in the passenger side footwell, you should be able to see the wire and run it through there. To help, you can use something like a hanger, stick it through the grommet, then when you see that, tape the power wire into the other side of the hanger and pull it out on the interior side. That red wire we're running to the compartment where the XM tuner is. We'll be using that to give power the PC later on, but may as well run the wire now.

We also ran a couple wires down the center console for the PC. We'll also be mounting the remote bass control into the console. Before cleaning up the wires a bit, we hooked them up to the amps to test it all out:

To clean up the wires we ran into a hole that goes up underneath the storage compartment on the right (when looking straight at it), and then out the back

Your wiring is all done for now, now we begin building the sub enclosure.

We start with a piece of MDF, and cut it into smaller pieces that fit the dimensions we looked for initially.

Next, we cut out the bottom of the enclosure to the shape under the strut tower brace:

The reason for the flat piece in the front, is because the sub is a 12", which will not fit directly under the strut brace, so it will need to stick out a bit, and need a support.

Now we build the back of the enclosure and do more test fitting.

The back fits great, so now it's time to build the sides:

Next we build the front. Each piece is attached with a polyurethane glue and then screwed into another piece.

Next we build the ring, and test fit it:

Next we build supports for the ring to sit on the sub enclosure:

We used a cutup t-shirt and stapled it around the run the enclosure. Make sure everything is tight, and looks even.

Now we lay down resin on the t-shirt, put fiberglass on-top of it, and then another layer of resin. Careful, because it dries fast!

Here it is so far, you'll want to let it dry, then cut off the excess t-shirt.

Now it's time to sand it down, you'll need a mask...you definitely don't want to inhale fiberglass.

Here it is sanded down:

Next we put a layer of Evercoat Rage body filler:

Next we sand it down and do a test fitment:

Now we use evercoat metal-glaze finishing filler for easier spreading and fewer pinholes:

Time to sand again!

More test fitting:

Time to start on the amp rack beauty panel. We start with a piece of plywood (Our original intention was to cover the amp rack with vinyl, so we used the lighter plywood. MDF would have been better for painting though.). We traced out the rear part of the hatch we plan for it to sit in:

Next we cut it, and do some test fitting and more trimming for a perfect fit:

Now we'll start the amp rack so we can see what size hole to cut into the beauty panel:

The hole is now cut into the beauty panel to fit the amps:

We've cut out a floor so we can figure out how high the amp rack has to sit:

Test fit time!

Now we've built the rest of the amp rack so it will sit that way on the beauty panel. We've cut the holes out so we can run wire through it, and we've also made a hole so the capacitor can sit in it.

We painted it black just to better match, even though you'll never see it.

Another test fit with the cap:

Next we cutout the hole for the cap on the beauty panel, and test fit:

Now we sand out the edges to give a more rounded look, and we want to get rid of the gap on the capacitor hole as much as possible:

Now we use filler once again:

Sand it down:

Now we primer the parts to get ready for painting, and do one last test fit:

The parts are now painted. Thanks to our lovely models, Alex and Mike :) I'll bet you guys can't wait to see how it looks after all that work, right!

And here it is after hooking everything up and putting it all back together:

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